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BFS Master Gardener: Brenda Kouyoumdjian

Project Bud Burst

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in Project Bud Burst, montessori green school, green school mclean, green school, green education mclean, climate change on May 17, 2010

Your observations can become valuable data for climate change and environmental researchers by participating in Project BudBurst. Project BudBurst is a nation- wide effort to record phenology events that help research scientists better understand changes in our environment. There are many opportunities for citizen scientists to participate in this important work. The Project Bud Burst website has detailed information on how families and schools can participate. In fact, children comprised the largest group of people reporting data for Project Bud Burst last year! Get started by going outside and looking for new sprouts or blooms that appeared over night. See what others are recording on the website, or on their own web pages. What a great way to get your kids outdoors and observing nature.

Here are just a few of the blooms in my yard this month

http://northernvirginiagardener.blogspot.com/

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Butterfly and Hummingbird Gardens

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in Watching butterflies, Maintaining your garden, Hummingbird Gardens, green school, green gardening, gardening tips, Create a Butterfly Garden, Butterfly Gardens on Apr 23, 2010

Create a Butterfly Garden

Tiger swallowtail

Butterflies are some of the most beautiful, fragile animals in nature, sometimes called “flying flowers.” Butterflies and moths pollinate flowers, and both adults and larvae are an important food source for birds, bats, and other wildlife. Nearly 700 kinds or species occur in North America. About 20 species commonly are found in the Pacific Northwest.

Attracting butterflies to your yard and garden is easy if you create a habitat that meets the butterflies’ needs for growth and development. Butterfly larvae, or caterpillars, eat leaves. Adult butterflies feed on nectar from colorful, fragrant flowers. Putting in the right plants for both of these increases your chances of attracting and keeping butterflies in your garden. Suitable habitat also includes shelter from wind and rain, open sunny areas for basking, and mud puddles for water and nutrients.

This publication describes the life cycle of butterflies, how to design your garden to meet the specific needs of butterflies, a list of some of the most common butterfly species in the Pacific Northwest and their favorite food sources, and a chart showing the different times of year the adult butterflies of each species are active.

Life cycle

Butterflies undergo a complete change or metamorphosis through four different life stages: egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (chrysalis), and adult. The development of a butterfly from egg to adult can take from 3 weeks to several months, depending on the species and the time of year.

Female butterflies lay eggs singly or in clusters on specific host plants. Usually, they lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves, which provides protection from both predators and weather.

Tiny caterpillars hatch from the eggs and spend all of their time eating leaves and growing. (Some caterpillars born late in the summer overwinter in this stage and then begin eating in the spring.) When the caterpillar becomes too large for its skin, it molts, or sheds its skin. This occurs at least four times.

After the final molt, the caterpillar searches for a twig or leaf to which it can attach itself. The caterpillar then forms an outer shell around its body, called a pupa or chrysalis. It usually takes 1 to 2 weeks for the pupa to develop. (Some pupae spend the winter in this stage and emerge in the spring.)

During this stage, the transformation from caterpillar to adult butterfly is completed. A newly formed butterfly emerges and flies away to look for a mate and continue the cycle. See Table 1 for the time of year to expect adult butterflies.

Table 1. Butterfly species and the time of year they are active.
Common Name	Species	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep
Early spring species
Sara orangetip	Anthocharis sara
Spring azure	Celastrina argioulus
Late spring/Early summer species
Silvery blue	Glaucopsyche lygdamus
Brown elfin	Callophrys augustus
Mourning cloak	Nymphalis antiopa
Western oak dusky wing	Erynnis propertius
Wide-ranging species (late spring through early fall)
Cabbage white	Pieris rapae
Satyr comma or Golden anglewing	Polygonia satyrus
Red admiral	Vanessa atalanta
Monarch	Danaus plexxipus
Western tiger swallowtail	Papilio rutulus
Western swallowtail	Papilio zelicaon
Field crescent	Phyciodes mylitta
Painted lady	Vanessa cardui
American painted lady	Vanessa virginiensis
Western painted lady	Vanessa carye
Common ringlet	Coenonympha tullia
Summer species
Clodius parnassian or American apollo	Parnassius clodius
Pale swallowtail	Papilio eurymedon
Purplish copper	Lycaena helloides
Summer/Early fall species
Woodland skipper	Ochlodes sylvanoides
Lorquin’s admiral	Limenitis lorquini
Large wood nymph	Cercyonis pegala
Gray hairstreak	Strymon melinus
Orange sulfur	Colias eurytheme
Pine white	Neophasia menapia
California tortoiseshell	Nymphalis californica
Great spangled fritillary	Speyeria cybele

Designing your garden

Protection from wind

A butterfly garden can be any size, but it needs to be in a sunny, open area protected from wind. Determine from which direction the prevailing wind comes, and plant larger shrubs, vines, or trees as a windbreak (Figure 1). The windbreak should protect from wind without decreasing the amount of sunlight.



Figure 1. An example of a butterfly garden design.

You already may have an effective border area in your yard. If you are going to plant additional species, choose nectar-producing trees, shrubs, and vines that provide both food and protection. Pink or white viburnum, oceanspray, and rhododendron are excellent choices for shrubs. A trellis or wall covered with honeysuckle or clematis makes an attractive barrier. Nectar-producing trees include cottonwood, dogwood, cherry, apple, or plum.

Nectar plants for adult butterflies

After emerging, adult butterflies look for sources of nectar (Table 2). Color, fragrance, size, and shape are all important characteristics of the best nectar flowers.

Butterflies are nearsighted and are attracted to large patches of a particular type of flower. If you want to attract a particular species, a large splash of brightly colored flowers of one species is more effective than several different colors or species mixed together. However, planting several kinds of good nectar-producing flowers usually attracts more species of butterflies.

Fragrance may be even more important than color for attracting butterflies. Many nectar-producing flowers, such as lavender, lilac, and honeysuckle, emit strong fragrances to attract pollinators.

The size and shape of flowers is also important. Larger butterflies, such as swallowtails, prefer to land on flowers with large compact heads (“composites”) because they provide a platform for the butterflies to rest on while feeding. Composites include asters, goldenrod, zinnia, marigolds, and yarrow. Other flower types that butterflies prefer have tightly packed clusters of flowers. Some examples are lantana, honeysuckle, and milkweed. For your butterfly garden, choose a selection of plants that blossom at different times of year to provide nectar throughout the spring, summer, and fall.

Species that attract butterflies include native and non-native plants (see Table 2). Plants that are native to the Pacific Northwest are recommended for several reasons. Native plant gardens are better adapted to the climate and, once established, may need less water and maintenance. Butterflies recognize native plants more easily and often use them for food, shelter, and reproductive sites.

Table 2. Butterflies commonly found in the Pacific Northwest with host and nectar plants for each species.
Species	Host plants	Nectar plants
Anise swallowtail	Desert-parsley*, dill, carrot, garden parsley, anise	Desert-parsley, garden mint, zinnia, penstemon, lantana
Western tiger swallowtail	Big-leaf maple, willow, aspen, cottonwood	Common lilac, rhododendron, honeysuckle, milkweed, mock orange, lavender, verbena, sweet-william
Pale swallowtail	Buckbrush, cherry, plum, hawthorn, cascara, oceanspray*	Oceanspray, columbine, garden mint, thistle, blackberry, penstemon*, sweet-william
American apollo	Bleeding heart*	Blackberry*
Gray hairstreak	Pea, mallow, buckthorn, borage, rhododendron, rose, pine*	Goldenrod, milkweed, clover, winter cress
Pine white	Pine, Douglas-fir, true fir, hemlock, redcedar*	Dusty miller, daisies, coreopsis, lobelia, goldenrod*, strawflower
Orange sulfur	Alfalfa, clover*, and other legumes	Alfalfa, mustard, thistle, aster, red-osier dogwood*
Sara orangetip	Hedge mustard, winter cress	Cherry, plum, strawberry, monkey flower, dandelion, violet, rockcress
Brown elfin	Apple, bitterbrush, manzanita, rhododendron, azalea, salal	Cherry, plum, willow, osoberry, bitterbrush
Purplish copper	Knotwood, cinquefoil, dock, sorrel	Mint, heather, clover* and many composites
Spring azure	Dogwood, oak, buckthorn, madrone, cherry, plum, oceanspray, salal	Cherry, plum, willow, wild-lilac, milkweed, wild mustard*
Silvery blue	Mostly lupine; also wild pea, vetch, clover	Cherry, plum, coneflower, desert-parsley, lupine*
Lorquin’s admiral	Willow, oceanspray, cottonwood, cherry, apple	Thistle, dogbane, wild mustard, blackberry, privet
Red admiral	Stinging nettle*	Daisy, aster, thistle, dandelion, goldenrod, milkweek, fireweed*
Painted lady	Mostly thistle, sunflower, pearly everlasting*, hollyhock	Oregon-grape, rabbitbush, zinnia, dandelion, aster, cosmos, milkweed*, purple coneflower
Mourning cloak	Elm, cottonwood, willow, birch, wild rose, hawthorn*	Willow, milkweed, clove pink, rockcress
California tortoiseshell	Wild lilac*	Willow, garden lilac, thistle, sneezeweed, goldenrod
Mylitta crescent	Thistle*	Pearly everlasting, hawkbit, goldenrod, aster*
Satyr comma	Stinging nettle*	Dandelion, aster, blackberry, also rotting fruit
Common ringlet	Grasses*	Dandelion, sweetclover, buttercup*
Common wood nymph	Grasses*	Coneflower, garden mint, sunflower, fleabane, penstemon, clematis
Great spangled fritillary	Violet*	Gloriosa daisy, thistle, verbena, milkweed
Monarch	Milkweed*	Milkweed, lantana, lilac, cosmos, goldenrod, zinnia
Woodland skipper	Grasses*	Bluebeard, lavender, oxeye daisy, garden sage, pearly everlasting, black-eyed susan, aster
* Many wild varieties are native to the Pacific Northwest.

Be careful not to plant species that are too aggressive and/or invasive, such as English ivy. English ivy can out-compete all other plants, including native plants, and limit the diversity of your garden habitat. It spreads quickly to adjacent areas, climbing tree trunks and other vertical structures, and produces seeds that are carried by birds to other areas.

The popular, non-native butterfly bush (Buddlea davidii) is no longer recommended for planting, because it also is invasive. Alternatives to butterfly bush are California lilac (Ceanothus thrysiflorus) or chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus), which have similar foliage and flowers.

Avoid ornamental flowering plants that have been hybridized to produce showy or “double” flowers. Instead, choose the simple, old-fashioned varieties, because they are better sources of nectar.



Mourning cloak

Host plants for caterpillars

After it hatches, the caterpillar spends most of its time feeding on the host plants’ leaves, which provide all of its nutritional requirements. Caterpillars are very particular about their host plants. Many starve to death if they cannot find the right plant. If you know which food each species prefers, you can attract more species of butterflies (see Table 2). Putting in the right host plants near nectar plants encourages butterflies to remain in your garden from generation to generation.

Minerals and water

In addition to nectar, butterflies need minerals and water. Butterflies do not drink from open water. They get the moisture and minerals they need from moist areas around water. This is called “mud-puddling.”

You can create butterfly puddles with a bucket or any non-toxic container that holds water. Find a sunny spot that is out of the wind and near nectar plants. Bury the container in the ground, and fill it almost to the top with wet sand. Place a few twigs or rocks on top of the sand for perches.

Male butterflies require additional sodium during the mating season. You can supply it by occasionally adding a little salt to your puddle. If you are concerned about cats or other predators, you can put wet sand in a birdbath or other elevated container.

Winter shelter

A few butterfly species overwinter as adults. Most species either spend the colder months in the larval stage or move to warmer locations. To encourage adult butterflies to stay in your yard year-round, it is important to provide adequate shelter. Hibernating adults or larvae may seek cover under leaf litter or mulch, in tree holes or cavities, in log piles, under loose tree bark, in crevices of tree trunks and walls, or in a vacant shed.

A log pile is an excellent addition to any wildlife garden. It provides shelter for many small mammals and amphibians as well as butterflies. Butterflies may use log piles for perching, roosting, and hibernation. See EC 1542, Attract Reptiles and Amphibians to Your Yard for instructions on how to build a log pile (“For more information”).

Some butterflies have taken shelter in tin coffee cans or empty birdhouses. The only requirement is that there has to be a gripping surface for them to cling to. Some retailers advertise butterfly hibernation boxes, but these do not attract butterflies.

Basking sites

Butterflies are ectotherms, which means they need the sun to warm their blood and flight muscles. A butterfly must have enough sun exposure. Butterflies rarely take flight when temperatures are less than 60^oF. To encourage butterflies to be active in your garden, you need to maintain a large, open, sunny space, preferably in the center of the garden. If this is not possible, any south-facing site will work.

Also, butterflies enjoy basking sites. These can take many forms. Large, flat, light-colored rocks with high sun exposure are ideal, but butterflies also use brick walkways, cement, or gravel.

Roosting sites

Butterflies spend more than half of their day at rest (roosting). They search for a roost in the early afternoon and spend the night there. They also use the roost during cold or wet weather. An effective roost could be as simple as the underside of a leaf or a protected part of a bush. However, certain species might have more specific preferences. If you offer a wide range of shelter such as trees, shrubs, and patches of overgrown grass, you provide more roosting sites.

Maintaining your garden

In order to maintain healthy butterfly habitat, do not use pesticides in your garden. Many pesticides not only kill the target insect species but also adversely affect all stages of a butterfly’s life cycle. Some alternatives to pesticides include spot treating individual plants with organic oils or soaps, removing caterpillars from leaves by hand, or simply accepting insects as a natural component of a functioning garden. Also, the absence of chemicals allows natural insect predator populations, such as spiders and ladybug beetles, to increase. These species prey upon unwanted garden insects.

Remember when you prune or clean up dead plants and debris in your yard that there could be adults or larvae using this as habitat for roosting, pupating, or hibernating. If you find a chrysalis while pruning, attach the twig and leaf to a lower branch with a clothespin and watch for the butterfly to emerge in the spring.

Try to leave some areas in your property “wild,” where grass and native, non-invasive weeds can grow undisturbed.



Spring azure

Watching butterflies

Butterflies are beautiful, fascinating creatures. Children enjoy watching them and are fascinated with their stages of metamorphosis. Providing butterfly habitat in your yard is a great way to expose children to the wonders of nature.

Butterflies are easy to see during a warm, sunny day. Early in the morning, they are likely to be found basking in an open, sunny area. Later in the morning or early afternoon, most butterflies forage for food and fly around nectar-producing flowers. You also can see them around puddles or wet areas at this time.

You might be able to approach butterflies if you are slow and cautious. However, they are easily frightened. It is important not to approach butterflies from above, as they might view you as a predator.

Many people enjoy keeping a journal of the different species that visit their garden and the time of year they arrive. Butterflies also are excellent subjects for photographers. Once your butterfly garden is complete, sit back, enjoy the beauty you have created, and watch the treasures unfold.

from Oregon State University Extension Service

EC 1549
January 2002

S. Lamb, S. Chambers, and N. Allen

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Backyard Habitats

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in Untagged on Mar 29, 2010

As Earth Day Approaches, we may think about our "larger backyard," and the ways in

which we can encourage a healthy, welcoming environment. Try planting Native flowers

that attract beneficial wildlife, are well-suited to the climate and soil, and require

less intensive maintenance. In my own garden, I've started reducing my lawn in favor

of ground cover, vegetable beds, and perennial borders that attract beneficial

pollinators. www.northernvirginiagardener.blogspot.com

Backyard Wildlife Habitats

426-070

Greg Eaton, Department of Horticulture, Virginia Tech and Barbara Wright, Department of Horticulture, Virginia Tech

Wildlife Habitat

The area where an organism lives and meets its basic needs for food, water, cover, and space to survive is called its habitat. Each species of wildlife has different habitat requirements.

Why consider creating a wildlife habitat in your yard?

As residential and commercial development by humans continues to expand, wildlife habitats in the affected areas are altered and may become unable to support the needs of species that previously occupied those areas. Alternatively, species that are better adapted to metropolitan conditions may increase their presence and abundance as a direct result of this development.

The actions we take on our own properties can have a significant effect on the various species that share this habitat with us. One way we can enhance the natural features we have in our yards, neighborhoods, towns, and cities would be to create enjoyable and environmentally friendly backyard habitats.

Potential Benefits of Creating or Enhancing a Backyard Habitat

Beauty and Increased Property Values: Many plants, shrubs, and trees that benefit wildlife also are attractive to people. Having a variety of plants adds interest to your yard and helps protect against drastic changes caused by insect pests and plant diseases. The beauty and health of your yard add to the value of your real estate.

Value for Wildlife: Each species has different requirements so you need to provide diversity in your habitat if you hope to attract a variety of species. Further, wildlife will fare better where habitats provide most of the food, water, and cover they require in one area, minimizing the amount of travel they need to do.

Environmental Benefits: Well-managed backyard habitats can save energy, protect the soil, and improve water and air quality. Vegetation reduces the temperature extremes of heat often associated with urban areas, and when plants are located appropriately they can help cool our homes during the summer and reduce heat loss in the winter. Trees and other plants hold soils in place during rain and wind, reducing the amount of sediment and contaminants that enter water bodies. Plants improve air quality by filtering particulates and removing carbon dioxide from the air, replacing it with oxygen. Plants enhance our privacy and reduce dust and noise from road traffic. These effects are especially noticeable in developed areas. Plants make towns and cities more comfortable and pleasant places to live, for humans and wildlife.

Insect Control: Many species of wildlife, especially birds, eat insects. This is a great way to deal with annoying pests! Depending upon the species of wildlife you attract to your habitat, you may reduce the need to use certain harmful chemicals.

Habitat for Humans: Creating your own backyard habitat brings nature into your home range, offering opportunities to learn, enjoy, and pursue hobbies like bird watching, drawing, and photography right in your backyard.

Low Maintenance: For easier maintenance of your wildlife habitat landscapes consider using native plants. Native plants are adapted to local weather and soil conditions, they better resist local insects and diseases, and they provide foods that are familiar and timed to the life cycles of the animals in the region. Using native plants also reduces the potential for introducing invasive exotics that can cause serious problems to existing native populations. As invasive non-native plants spread, they may crowd out and compete with natives, causing some wildlife to lose their preferred food sources.

Expect the Unexpected in Backyard Habitats

There are many reasons for creating backyard habitats. Whether you want to create an appealing space for humans or enhance conditions for a particular species or the wildlife community as a whole, you should be prepared to deal with potentially unexpected results. The adage "if you build it, they will come" certainly applies to habitats we create in our yards. Functional and diverse habitats on your property are very likely to attract the animals you desire. However, it also is likely that you will attract species that you did not anticipate. Without careful planning or management some of these species may become pests.

Very often, property owners will encounter snakes that have been attracted to the new abundance of insects or small mammals that have prospered in your new habitat. Other predators (e.g., hawks, owls, foxes, coyotes) may respond to and take advantage of prey populations that have increased in abundance and density. Free-roaming species, like raccoons, opossums, or skunks, may find your yard very attractive due to the food resources it now provides or the cover it affords. They also may find the garbage can, the open garage or storage shed, or the space below your deck to be an attractive resource, too. Herbivores like deer and rabbits may cause significant feeding damage to plantings if you do not take precautions. All wildlife species are protected or regulated by statute; they cannot simply be eliminated on a whim if you find a particular species to be objectionable.

Careful planning can reduce potential problem species, but increasing habitat diversity increases the probability of unexpected consequences. While this may be a part of the allure of backyard habitats, you should be prepared to deal with unexpected problems in a responsible way.

To help prevent unwanted animal attention to your house, yard, and garden keep those areas tidy. Keep brush or woodpiles away from the house or garden. Don't leave pet food or garbage outside and keep areas under houses and porches cleared and sealed when possible. For more information about animal damage control see the list of publications at the end of this publication.

The Four Basic Wildlife Needs: Food, Water, Cover, and Space

Food: Each species has its own nutritional needs, which may change from one season to another and with the age or reproductive status of the animal. Well-planned plantings in a backyard habitat can provide a variety of foods, such as fruits and berries, grains and seeds, nuts and acorns, browse (the twigs and buds of shrubs and trees), and forage (grasses and legumes). Flowering plants provide nectar as well as seeds and fruits. Some plants have greater value because they hold their seed or fruit well into the fall or winter when other food sources already are depleted. Insects and other invertebrates, attracted to flowers, shrubs, and trees, also provide food for wildlife.

Water: Water is essential to all forms of life. Water sources on your property should be protected and can be enhanced. If you lack readily available water sources, you might create an artificial pond or use birdbaths. Many species of wildlife obtain the water they need directly from the food they eat, but a good drink of clean water is always welcome. Birdbaths should be no more than three inches deep and have a rough, sloping bottom to provide good footing. Heated birdbaths provide water when most other sources are frozen. Ponds should have shallow edges so that small animals can drink without danger of falling in and drowning.

Cover: Trees, shrubs, grasses, and flowering plants provide shelter or cover for wildlife, as do rock piles, brush piles, cavities in trees, and birdhouses. Wildlife use cover to protect themselves from the elements, to hide from predators, and to rest or sleep. They also use cover for nests, dens, and rearing their young. Cover also helps animals maintain temperature and conserve energy reserves by offering protection against cold winter winds and inclement weather, as well as providing cool shade during hot summer months.

Space: Many species of wildlife are territorial, which means they will defend an area that contains the food, water, and cover resources they need. Species that are not territorial simply live in a resource-rich area that allows them to perform their daily functions and successfully find food, water, and cover without overt competition. The amount of space needed for a territory or home range varies with the species, the quality of the habitat, the number of other competitors, and the time of year. Have you noticed that many birds are solitary or paired in summer and flock together in winter? Keep in mind that territories and home ranges may include, but often extend beyond, your yard.

Planning for a Backyard Habitat

Why are you doing this and what do you really want to achieve? It is very important to think carefully about what you want in your yard, in terms of wildlife and other uses or values, before you undertake any on-the-ground actions. What are your goals? Do you want to focus on just a few species or attract as many species as possible? What species have you already seen in your yard? What species are present in other parts of your community that might be enticed to your property? Keep in mind that you will be managing the habitat, not the wildlife species themselves. Do you want increased privacy, exciting views of gardens or flowering trees from your windows, a protective windbreak against cold north winds or shade for south-facing windows during summer? Make a list of your specific goals for your habitat and then prioritize them. Recognize that you can create suitable habitat for wildlife while achieving a landscape that also meets your needs. Make a master plan and then implement it in phases as finances and time allow (see Figure below).

Take Inventory. Make a sketch map of your yard and draw in all the physical features (e.g., buildings, septic tanks and fields, power lines, driveways). Then, locate the existing plants, trees, hedges, and other vegetation you wish to keep. It is not necessary to remove existing plantingsÑstart with what you have and add other materials. Include on your map important features of neighboring lands, such as a pond, a stand of big white pine trees, or a rock wall. Remember, habitat is not confined by your property lines, so you should think as wildlife do and see the opportunities that exist nearby. Other helpful information, such as soil and light conditions (wet, dry, shady, and sunny areas), should be added to your map. Identify soil types and find out if there are nutrient deficiencies (consider having a soil test performed through your county Extension office).

Below is an example of a drawing of a typical residence and yard used to plan a backyard habitat. You can use graph paper to help sketch your own yard to appropriate scale.

Principles of a Backyard Habitat

Form and Function: When choosing plants to use in your yard, consider the function or role they will play as well as the form or appearance they offer. Will this plant provide food or shelter? Will it add diversity to the habitat? Since you may have limits on what you can plant because of the size of your yard or the cost of plant materials, try to select plants that fulfill more than one habitat function.

Plant Diversity: Diversity or variety in your habitat promotes a healthy landscape and attracts a more diverse wildlife community. Keep in mind that habitat diversity includes both species and structural diversity of the plants that form habitat, as well as a variety of nonliving materials.

The presence of many plant species makes it less likely that insects or disease will cause severe problems. Having a variety of trees, shrubs, perennial and annual flowers, and grasses in your yard also may attract a more varied wildlife community. With careful planning, a diverse plant community can provide a wide selection of food and cover options for wildlife, as well as reward you with a year-round variety of aesthetically pleasing views as the plants flower or fruit at different times.

Ecotone

The zone of transition from one habitat to another. The wider the zone and the greater the diversity of plant species and vertical structure, the more diversity there will be in the species of wildlife attracted to the site.

The shape and size of different plants combine to create horizontal and vertical structure in your landscape. You can think of horizontal, or lateral, structure in terms of edges, those places where one habitat type meets another (e.g., where a lawn abuts a stand of trees). You can increase lateral diversity by widening the ecotone, the zone of transition between habitat types. For example, you could plant small shrubs such as sweet pepperbush, tall shrubs such as serviceberry, and small trees such as crabapple on the edge between a lawn and a line of trees, as shown in the illustration above right. You can widen the ecotone in a flower garden by planting species of increasing heights. This can be accomplished by having low-growing plants, such as sedum and marigolds, in front of medium-height plants, such as columbine and liatris, with tall plants, such as phlox and yarrow, located behind.

You can increase vertical diversity in your landscape by adding more layers of vegetation between the ground and the treetops. Wildlife species that feed, nest, or find shelter at different levels will be better able to meet their needs. You can enhance vertical diversity as already described above, or by planting specific species of varying heights and growth habits in arrangements that are appealing to you. Of course, use plants appropriate to the size of your yard.

Pictured above is an example of different structural levels of plants: Ground covers, low flowers, medium flowers, tall flowers, small bushes, medium to tall bushes small trees and large trees.

Diversity of nonliving materials: There is more to wildlife habitat diversity than living plants. Standing or fallen dead trees provide potential cavities, food, and perches. Brush piles, rock piles, and stone walls provide hiding, nesting, and feeding sites. Sources of grit and loose soil (for dust baths) are important to birds as aids to digestion and hygiene. Buildings provide nest sites and perches, as well as places for butterflies and moths to hibernate. Nest and winter roosting boxes can be erected to supplement natural cavities, and feeders add to the food supply. Water, in any form, is essential.

Seasonality

Providing food and cover year-round requires a variety of trees, shrubs, and other plants. It is important to think about the needs of the wildlife species you hope to attract during each season. A sufficient quantity of high-quality food during fall, winter, and early spring is critical to the survival of resident, as well as migrating, species. Energy needs of wildlife also are high during late spring and summer due to the demands of reproduction. Adequate and well-placed cover is necessary year-round for nest sites, shelter from weather, escape from predators, and roosting. Conifers, trees with cavities, and brush and rock piles provide winter shelter.

Arrangement

Natural Wild Design, allowing ready access to food, water, and cover, is an advantage in creating the backyard habitat. Curves and clusters are visually appealing to us, and often will be more useful to wildlife than linear or solitary plantings. Sources of food, cover, and water need to be located near each other. Feeders located too far away from protective cover either will not be used or will increase the risk of mortality to users from exposure to adverse weather or predation. By planting several offset rows of conifers, you can create an energy-efficient break against prevailing winds. On the inside of the windbreak, a protected area will be created for feeders or plants that bear berries or other fruits. When placing nest boxes, locate them to meet the needs of the species for which the nest box is intended rather than what looks attractive to you.

Protection

Predation: To offer protection for birds, all feeders and birdbaths should be located at least 15 feet away from shrubby cover because cats often use this cover to ambush birds using these facilities. However, feeders should be placed no more than 30 to 40 feet from some form of cover to provide sanctuary from aerial predators.

Windows: Because large windows can reflect an image of the sky and adjacent vegetation, songbirds sometimes fly into them, resulting in serious or fatal injury. To prevent such crashes, do not place bird feeders adjacent to windows. Or, try placing a cutout silhouette of a flying falcon or a mobile of pinecones in front of the window or attach parallel strings across the window.

Nest boxes: House sparrows and starlings are exotic birds that compete with native songbirds and will sometimes kill native birds in skirmishes to control a nest box. It is essential when you buy or make nest boxes to choose ones designed specifically for the species you want to attract. Removing all perches from any nest box will reduce the risk of predation or invasion by these exotic species. Learn how and where to place nest boxes to reduce predation by cats and raccoons. Recommendations for placement are often species-specific. Seek guidance from birdhouse vendors orhttp://www.birds.cornell.edu/birdhouse/bhbasics/placement.html#Where.

Sanitation: It is extremely important to keep bird feeders, nest boxes, and birdbaths clean. The transmission of disease associated with contaminated bird feeders is a serious problem and can contribute to death among songbirds. Food can become contaminated with mold or fungus when it is not stored properly or when it remains too long in a feeder. The surfaces of feeders and birdbaths can support viruses and other diseases left behind by an infected bird; diseases can then be spread to uninfected individuals every time they use that feeder. Sick birds often look unkempt, are less alert or less active, feed less often, and are often reluctant to fly away.

Take these steps to prevent disease before birds become sick:

At least once a week, rake up waste food, husks, and other accumulated material below feeders on the ground.
Avoid crowding birds by providing multiple feeders, spaced apart rather than clustered together.
Use feeders that don't have sharp points or edges. Bacteria and viruses on contaminated surfaces can infect healthy birds through even small scratches.
Clean and disinfect feeders at least once every two weeks, and more often if you observe sick birds. Remove all food remaining in the feeder, wash it thoroughly with warm soapy water, rinse with clean water, and then immerse the feeder for two or three minutes in a solution of one part liquid chlorine household bleach to nine parts warm water. Remove and allow the feeder to air dry before refilling.
Do not dispense food that smells musty, is wet, looks moldy, or has fungus growing on it. Discard any food that has had any contact with rodents.
Disinfect the storage container and food scoop that may have come in contact with spoiled food.
Every day, rinse birdbaths and replace the water. Twice a week scrub them with a plastic bristle brush and mild dish detergent, and rinse thoroughly before refilling. Once every two weeks, after scrubbing the bath, fill it with a 10-percent bleach solution and let it stand for three minutes. Rinse well with clean water and air dry before refilling with water.
Tell your neighbors who feed birds about these precautions. Birds move among feeders and spread diseases as they go.

Nectar Feeders: The nectar dispensed in artificial feeders can ferment in as little as two to three days. Drinking fermented nectar can cause enlarged livers in hummingbirds and orioles. Purchase only feeders that come apart easily so that you can scrub and disinfect all surfaces every two days as described above. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the feeder after it has been immersed in the bleach-water solution. Plant a diversity of nectar-rich plants to supply natural nectar to wildlife.

Suet: Do not offer suet year-round. Sun-warmed suet can become rancid and lead to infection and potential loss of facial feathers. It also mats the feathers, reducing their insulating and waterproofing ability. Provide suet only from late October through April or May, or when outdoor temperature warms noticeably.

Chemical fertilizers and pesticides: Many common house and yard chemicals present dangers to wildlife and humans. Birds can mistake common granular formulations as grit and unknowingly consume a lethal dose. Predators may then consume prey that has been exposed to chemicals. If you use any chemicals, use them only as directed. Even then, many formulations can still be lethal to wildlife. Re-evaluate the need to use these substances. Choose plant species that are resistant to diseases and pests or let wildlife perform your insect control. Wherever possible, be tolerant of some insect damage. Use mulch, composted leaves, or other organic matter to add nutrients to the soil and help strengthen a plant's ability to ward off diseases.

Resources

Programs
Habitat at Home© is an education outreach effort of the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries that offers guidelines on how to provide food, water, and cover for a variety of wildlife species. Homeowners and other Virginia residents may apply for a Habitat at Home© certificate. For more details, visit http://www.dgif.virginia.gov/ or contact Carol Heiser at HabitatAtHome@dgif.virginia.gov.

Publications Adams, George Martin. 1998. Birdscaping Your Garden: A Practical Guide to Backyard Birds and the Plants That Attract Them. Lansdowne Publishing Pty. Limited, Rodale Press.

Kress, Stephen W., and Robert Burton. 2005. National Audubon Society's The Bird Garden. DK Publishing.

Brock, Jim P., and Kenn Kaufman. 2003. Butterflies of North America. Houghton Mifflin Company.

Stokes, Donald W., Lillian Stokes, and Ernest Williams. 1991. The Butterfly Book: An Easy Guide to Butterfly Gardening, Identification and Behavior. Little, Brown and Company.

Web Links
"Habitats, A Fact Sheet Series on Managing Lands for Wildlife, Components of a Backyard Wildlife Habitat." University of Maine Cooperative Extension Bulletin #7137.http://www.umext.maine.edu/onlinepubs/htmpubs/habitats/7137.htm

"Habitats, A Fact Sheet Series on Managing Lands for Wildlife, Principles for Creating a Backyard Wildlife Habitat." University of Maine Cooperative Extension Bulletin #7132.http://www.umext.maine.edu/onlinepubs/htmpubs/7132.htm

"The Birdhouse Network, Tips on Birdhouse Placement," Where to place nest boxes and birdhouses. Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Cornell University.http://www.birds.cornell.edu/birdhouse/bhbasics/placement.html#Where

"Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping, Chesapeake Bay Watershed." U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.http://www.nps.gov/plants/pubs/chesapeake/toc.htm

"Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping in Maryland." U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service Bayscapes Landscaping Program.http://www.nps.gov/plants/pubs/nativesMD/index.htm

"Landscaping for a Healthy Planet." Pennsylvania Audubon Society and the Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay.http://www.envirolandscaping.org/webcasts.htm

North America Butterfly Association. http://www.naba.org/

The Virginia Native Plant Society. http://www.vnps.org/

Backyard Wildlife Habitat. National Wildlife Federation.http://www.nwf.org/backyardwildlifehabitat/

"Butterfly Garden." University of Tennessee Extension Specialized Gardening Publication PB1636.http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/pbfiles/PB1636.pdf

"Audubon At Home." Audubon Society.http://www.audubon.org/bird/at_home/

Potential Wildlife Pests Web Links
"Skunk Management." Virginia Cooperative Extension fact sheet.http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/articles/misc/skunkmng.html

Managing Wildlife Damage: Black Bears (Ursus americanus), Virginia Cooperative Extension publication 420-200. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/420-200/

Managing Wildlife Damage: Beavers (Castor canadensis), Virginia Cooperative Extension publication 420-202. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/420-202/

Managing Wildlife Damage: Canada Goose (Branta canadensis), Virginia Cooperative Extension publication 420-203. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/420-203/

Managing Wildlife Damage: Moles, Virginia Cooperative Extension publication 420-201. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/420-201/

The following publications are from other states. While they contain very helpful information, their wildlife control recommendations may or may not be consistent with Virginia law. Please consult your local Cooperative Extension office for current Virginia statutes that may apply.

"Animals in the Garden," University of Delaware Cooperative Extension publication HYG-63. Link athttp://ag.udel.edu/extension/agnr/pestmanagement.htm

"Wildlife Damage Management: Reducing Vole Damage to Plants," Maryland Cooperative Extension publication FS-654.http://www.agnr.umd.edu/MCE/Publications/Publication.cfm?ID=146&cat=8

"Wildlife Damage Management: Resistance of Ornamentals to Deer Damage," Maryland Cooperative Extension publication FS-655.http://www.agnr.umd.edu/MCE/Publications/Publication.cfm?ID=41&cat=8

"Managing Raccoon Problems in Missouri." University of Missouri Extension.http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/wildlife/g09453.htm

Reviewers
Jim Parkhurst, Extension specialist, Department of Fisheries and Wildlife, Virginia Tech

Carol Heiser, Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries

Don Davis, Environmental Horticulture Extension agent, Lynchburg

Adria Bordas, Environmental Horticulture Extension agent, Fairfax County

Reviewed by James Parkhurst, Extension Specialist, Fisheries and Wildlife Science

Virginia Cooperative Extension materials are available for public use, re-print, or citation without further permission, provided the use includes credit to the author and to Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, and Virginia State University.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Rick D. Rudd, Interim Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; Wondi Mersie, Interim Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State, Petersburg.

May 1, 2009

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Seed Starting

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in Untagged on Mar 3, 2010

Starting seeds indoors

Starting seeds indoors is one of the greatest joys of the vegetable growing season. In the dead of winter, we witness the magical transformation of a seed into new life. Gardening with kids provides a unique opportunity to teach life cycle lessons, and if you play your cards right, nutritious eating habits. I've had success on both counts in my own backyard vegetable garden: www.http://northernvirginiagardener.blogspot.com/

Knowing when to start seeds indoors takes some backward thinking. Find out the average date of the last frost in your area and the number of weeks before that date you should start a particular seed (the number of weeks varies and is listed on the seed package). Then count backwards on the calendar from the average last frost date. Most seeds should be started six to eight weeks before the last frost date. Some seeds can be started a few weeks before it, while others may need a lead-time of 12 to 14 weeks. If you start seeds too early, you will have to keep the seedlings inside too long, and they will be weak by transplant time. For vegetable planting dates outdoors, visit ttp://www.hgic.umd.edu/_media/documents/publications/planting_dates.pdf.

To start seeds indoors, it is important to have enough light. More homegrown seedlings are probably lost to this one factor than to any other. Vegetable seedlings grown under low-light conditions are likely to be leggy and weak, and many will fall over under their own weight after they are 3 to 4 inches tall. If you do not have a sunny room or back porch with a southern exposure, you will probably need supplemental lights. A simple, fluorescent, shop light with one warm-white and one cool-white bulb (or with grow lights) will suffice.

It is probably easiest to use a soilless or peat-lite mix to start seedlings, since garden soil contains disease organisms that can be highly destructive to small plants. Soil can be sterilized in the oven by baking it at 200ƒ F until the internal soil temperature is 180ƒ F. It should be held at that temperature for 30 minutes. This is a smelly process, but it works. Garden soil for use in containers should be conditioned with compost and perlite to prevent excess moisture retention and/or shrinkage . You can mix your own peat-like mix if you prefer; 50% vermiculite and 50% fine sphagnum peat is excellent for starting seeds. Fertilizer at half the normal strength may be added to the mixture. Mix well before using.

Many types of containers can be used to start seeds. Flats or other large containers may be used; plant in rows, and grow seedlings until they have one or two sets of true leaves, then transplant into other containers for growing to the size to transplant outdoors. Seedlings may also be started in pots, old cans, cut-off milk cartons, margarine tubs, egg cartons, or other throwaways. The pop-out trays found at garden centers are easy to use and reusable after cleaning. Peat pots are nice, especially for large seeds. Sow one or two large seeds directly in each peat pot. Thin to one seedling per pot. Peat pots may be planted directly in the garden; do not allow the edges of the pot to stick out above the soil since they will act as a wick and moisture will evaporate from this exposed surface. Many seed starting kits are now available and provide everything you will need, but remember that these are used as part of a hobby and not as a way to save money instead of buying plants at a nursery.

Regardless of the type of container chosen, fill it three quarters full with seed-starting mixture and sow the seeds. Cover to the specified depth, and water the mix. It may help to cover the containers with plastic wrap to maintain a steadier moisture level. Seeds and seedlings are extremely sensitive to drying out. They should not be kept soaking wet, however, since this condition is conducive to damping-off, a fungus disease deadly to seedlings. Damping-off can be prevented or diminished by sprinkling milled sphagnum moss, which contains a natural fungicide, on top of the soil.

Another option is to use peat pellets or cubes, which are preformed and require no additional soil mix. The pellets or cubes are soaked until thoroughly wet, then seeds are planted in the holes provided. The whole pellet or cube may then be planted without disturbing the roots. The only disadvantage to this method is the expense.

Starting seed outdoors

Many seeds may be sown directly in the garden. If garden soil is quite sandy or is mellow (with a high content of organic matter), seeds may be planted deeper. Young seedlings can emerge quite easily from a sandy or organic soil. If garden soil is heavy with a high silt and/or clay content, however, the seeds should be covered only two to three times their diameter. In such soils, it may be helpful to apply a band of sand, fine compost, or vermiculite, 4 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick, along the row after seeds are planted. This will help retain soil moisture and reduce crusting, making it easier for seedlings to push through the soil surface.

Soil temperature has an effect on the speed of seed germination. In the spring, soil is often cold, and seeds of some plants will rot before they have a chance to sprout. The following chart gives optimum soil temperatures.

Plant Production Data Chart
Crop Days to Emergence
From Seeding Optimum Germination
Soil Temp. Range (°F) Number of Weeks
to Grow Transplants
Beans 5-10 65° - 85° *
Beets 7-10 50° - 85° *
Broccoli 3-10 50° - 85° 5 - 7
Cabbage 4-10 50° - 85° 5 - 7
Carrots 12-18 50° - 85° *
Cauliflower 4-10 50° - 85° 5 - 7
Celery 9-21 50° - 65° 10 - 12
Chard, Swiss 7-10 65° - 85° *
Corn, sweet 5-8 65° - 85° *
Cucumber 6-10 65° - 85° 4 (peat pots)
Eggplant 6-10 65° - 85° 6 - 9
Lettuce 6-8 50° - 65° 3 - 5
Melons 6-8 65° - 85° 3 - 4 (peat pots)
Okra 7-10 65° - 85° *
Onion 7-10 65° - 85° 8
Parsley 15-21 50° - 85° 8
Peas 6-10 50° - 65° *
Pepper 9-14 65° - 85° 6 - 8
Potatoes, Sweet (slips) 65° - 85° 5 - 6
Radish 3-6 50° - 65° *
Spinach 7-12 50° - 65° *
Squash 4-6 65° - 85° 3 - 4 (peat pots)
Tomato 6-12 65° - 85° 5 - 7
Turnip 4-8 50° - 65° *
* transplants not recommended

When planting the fall garden in midsummer, the soil will be warm and dry; therefore, cover the seeds six to eight times their diameter. They may need to be watered each day with a sprinkler or a sprinkling can to promote germination. Moisture can also be retained with shallow mulch or by covering the row with a board until the seeds have sprouted. Shading the area may be helpful to keep the soil cooler for seed germination, especially when planting cool-weather crops in summer. Seed that requires a lower germination temperature may benefit from being kept in the refrigerator for two weeks before planting or from pre-sprouting indoors. Pre-sprouting is a useful technique for planting in cold soils, as well. However, seed must be handled very carefully once sprouted to prevent damaging new root tissue.

Row planting

A string stretched between stakes will provide a guide for nice, straight rows, if desired. Use a hoe handle, a special furrow hoe, or a grub hoe to make a furrow of the appropriate depth for the seed being planted. Sow seed thinly; it may help to mix very small seed with coarse sand to distribute the seeds more evenly. Draw soil over the seed, removing stones and large clods. Firming soil so that it is in direct contact with seeds improves uptake of soil moisture by the seed, hastening germination. Water in the seeds. When plants have grown to 4 to 6 inches tall, thin according to seed packet instructions to provide adequate room for growth.

Wide row or banded planting

Many crops may be sown in wide rows or bands instead of in long, single rows. Crops of spinach, bean, pea, beet, lettuce, and carrot are especially suited to this type of culture. Sow seed evenly over the area, then rake it in, firming soil over the seeds. Thin young plants to allow room for growth.

Hill planting

Larger vegetables, such as melons, squash, sweet corn, and cucumbers, may be planted in hills or groups of seed. Soil is mounded to a foot or so in diameter, at the recommended spacing. Plant four to six seeds per hill, firming the soil well. Thin the seedlings to three to five plants per hill.

Transplants for the Garden

Most gardeners use transplants in the garden at some time or another to give long-season plants a chance to grow to maturity under their preferred weather conditions or just to lengthen the harvest season. Cool-season crops, such as head lettuce, broccoli, and celery, would not have a chance to reach their prime harvest stage in most places in Virginia in spring if not given those extra weeks indoors to get a head start. Tomatoes would certainly have a short harvest period in all but southeastern Virginia if started from seed in the ground, and peppers and eggplants might not produce at all if not grown from transplants.

Due to the amount of time, attention, and need for controlled growing conditions, many gardeners prefer to purchase plants for their gardens. However, for a larger choice in varieties and the control of plant production from seed to harvest, others choose to start their own transplants.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Rick D. Rudd, Interim Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; Wondi Mersie, Interim Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State, Petersburg. adapted from articles by Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture, Virginia Tech, and Alan McDaniel, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture, Virginia Tech and Audrey Cooke, Frederick County Master Gardener

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What is the Value of the Virginia Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Program?

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in volunteer, outreach, nutrition education, master gardener, lawn care, healthy kids, environment, education, community schools, 4-H on Mar 1, 2010

A Virginia Cooperative Extension - Master Gardener (VCE-MG) is an individual who acts on behalf of VCE as a volunteer educator within his or her community after receiving specialized training in environmental horticulture through cooperative programming with VCE. Master Gardeners are trained to provide environmental education that meets SOL's, assist schools in establishing and maintaining schoolyard gardens, counsel homeowners about proper lawn care, and conduct environmental outreach to the general community.

For 2009, we reported more than 334,000 volunteer hours statewide (up from 269,000 hours in 2008) and more than 577,000 contacts (up from 547,000 in 2008). The economic value of that volunteer service exceeds $6.7 million dollars.

Master Gardeners are only one aspect of the Cooperative Extension Programs in Fairfax County. Extension programs have had a significant impact in our community and schools by providing:

SOL supported Environmental Education for community schools
Childhood Obesity Prevention programs (Healthy Weights for Healthy Kids)
Chronic Disease Prevention Education programs (Small Steps to Health and Wealth)
Financial Management Counseling
Nutrition Education for limited resource adults and families
Urban Landscaping Education to improve the Chesapeake Bay Watershed
4-H provided Character Counts Youth Leadership training in after school programs in Portsmouth and across the state.

In 2009, Extension Programs reached more than 2.2 million Virginians across the state and generated more than $75.8 million dollars to support research, which provided the ability to address critical needs of the Commonwealth.

Unfortunately, the Budget Bill before the Virginia legislature contains drastic cuts for VCE including the closure of many offices and combining others.

The Bill will eliminate Cooperative Extension completely in Fairfax, Arlington, Alexandria and Prince William and four other counties. Emails to legislators are needed to save these programs. If the Bill passes, Cooperative Extension jobs will be eliminated in Northern Virginia. Master Gardener programs, 4-ill also be eliminated. (Info http://leg1.state.va.us/101/bud/SubCom/HB30Committee.PDF ; p77, item 219 #2h).

To let our legislators know how important these programs are to the community call or email them. You can find your legislator here: http://conview.state.va.us/whosmy.nsf/main

Thank you in advance for your help, so that I can continue to work with Brooksfield as a Master Gardener volunteer.

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Extend the Growing Season With a Cold Frame

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in hardening off, greens, cold frame on Feb 12, 2010

Given the right conditions, a vegetable garden will yield a year-round supply of fresh produce. You can extend the growing season by sheltering plants from frost in early spring, late fall, and even winter. There are several options for protecting crops against cool weather. Your choices depend on the amount of time and money you want to invest.

Cold frames and row covers are the simplest, least expensive structures for protection from the cold. Cold frames are raised beds that are covered with a glass, fiberglass, or plastic cover. They shelter plants from wind and use the sun’s heat to warm the soil. They’re also useful in hardening off seeds before Spring planting.

The ideal location for a cold frame is a south or southeastern exposure, against a North wall that will provide further protection from the elements. Placing the bed on a slight slope will help with drainage, and sinking it into the ground will provide further insulation.

Low-tech materials, such as bails of hay or bricks placed in a square and topped with a storm glass window, make a perfectly functional cold frame. A plastic window cover is another light-weight, portable option that can be moved from bed to bed, or nailed to a wood frame. Polyurethane covers and cold frame kits are available from several sources. I purchased one from Gardener’s Supply and was delighted to find pak choy and spinach sprouting happily under several inches of snow. Unfortunately, this particularly cover tends to blow off in a strong wind.

A more elaborate wood structure is not difficult to build and is more permanent. If you are building a wood frame, use pressure treated cedar or plywood. Buy alkaline copper quarternary (ACQ) treated lumber in lieu of chromated copper arsenate (CCA) or ammoniacal copper arsenate (ACA).

Whatever method you chose, you’re sure to have an extended harvest. Prepare the coldframe about a week before you’re ready to harden off Spring seeds. Hardening off is the process of acclimating plants that were started indoors to the harsher light of the sun and cooler outdoor temperatures. Place seedlings in the coldframe for gradually increasing lengths of time until temperatures are appropriate for transplanting into the ground. In spring and summer, you can start young seedlings in a shaded frame many weeks before they’d ordinarily be ready to set out. You can also start cool season crops in the shelter of a cold frame. Make sure your coldframe is ventilated and irrigated, especially when winter temperatures reach 45 degrees. Depending on the harshness of the weather and a gardener’s ingenuity, an ambitious Northern Virginia Gardener can have fresh veggies year round.

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Green manure

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in Untagged on Jan 13, 2010

Brooksfield’s garden project is off to a strong start. The two raised
beds where we’ll plant vegetables and perennials require some soil
amendment, and Fall is the ideal time to get started. By preparing the
soil in the Fall, we’ll ensure that the garden is ready when the first
warm days lure us outside.

One method for restoring nutrients to soil is to plant a cover crop,
or green manure. A green manure is an organic method for improving
soil fertility. It’s “green” because it begins with a plant, rather
than an animal. A green manure is particularly useful in preventing
soil erosion and compaction. It also restores nitrogen to soil where
plants with high nutrient needs were previously growing.

To prepare the bed for a cover crop, or green manure, till under
summer plant waste and rake the soil to remove clumps. A cover crop
can be planted as early as August, or as last as November. There are
several types of cover crops to choose from. At Brooksfield, we used
winter rye, since it can be planted late in the season, is cold-hardy,
and grows in just about any type of soil conditions. We will turn it
under about a month before Spring planting. The green matter
decomposes quickly, transforming the soil into a healthy loam.

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Master Gardener: Brenda Kouyoumdjian

Posted by: Brenda Kouyoumdjian in Master Gardner on Nov 14, 2009

Brenda Kouyoumdjian

Virginia Master Gardeners are volunteer educators who work within their communities to encourage and promote environmentally sound horticulture practices through sustainable landscape management education and training. As an educational program of Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Master Gardeners bring the resources of Virginia’s land-grant universities, Virginia Tech and Virginia State University, to the people of the commonwealth.

As a Master Gardener, I contribute most of my hours teaching kids at Greenspring Gardens, giving docent tours, and assisting pre-schools in launching their own vegetable gardens.

I also blog about my own backyard garden successes and challenges at:

http://northernvirginiagardener.blogspot.com/

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